1996-2001 of release
Repair and car operation
+ 1. The maintenance instruction
+ 1.2. The information before car driving
+ 1.3. Independent maintenance service
+ 1.4. Technical characteristics
+ 1.5. Some councils at car purchase
+ 2. Maintenance service
+ 3. Engines
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. An exhaust system
+ 8. Transmission
+ 9. A running gear
+ 10. Brake system
- 11. A body
11.2. Vinyl furnish
11.3. An upholstery and rugs
11.4. Insignificant damages of a body
11.5. Considerable damages of a body
11.6. Loops and locks
11.7. A windscreen and motionless glasses
11.8. The central lock
11.9. A cowl
11.10. The lock of a cowl and a cable of a drive of the lock
11.11. Decorative panels of bumpers
11.12. A forward wing
11.13. A luggage carrier cover
11.14. A latch and the lock of a cover of a luggage carrier
11.15. A cable of a drive of unlocking of a door of a fuel tank / of a cover of a luggage carrier
11.16. Facing panels of doors
11.17. A door
11.18. A latch, the lock of a door and the handle
11.19. Door glass
11.22. The central floor section
11.23. Decorative panels of a forward part of facing of salon
11.24. Casings of a steering column
11.25. The panel of devices
11.26. Facing of a frame of a windscreen
11.28. A ware tray
+ 12. An electric equipment
Repair of small scratches
If the scratch superficial also does not mention body metal, repair is very simple. Slightly rub the scratched surface with thin polishing structure to remove a friable paint and wax. Wash out a surface pure water.
Put a paint for подкрашивания on a scratch by means of a small brush. Continue to put thin paint coats until the paint completely will not fill a scratch. Allow to a new paint to dry up, at least, within two weeks, and then mix it with surrounding paint, заполировав the painted area by means of thin polishing structure. And, at last, put the top layer of wax on the scratched surface.
If the scratch has got through a paint and has damaged body metal, having caused rust occurrence, it is necessary to apply other procedure of repair. Remove a rust from the basis of a scratch by means of a pocket knife, and then put an anticorrosive paint to prevent rust occurrence in the future. Having taken advantage rubber or nylon аппликатором, cover the scratched area with a glaze (a glaze – a translucent paint layer). Before the glaze in a scratch will harden, place a piece of a smooth cotton fabric round a finger-tip. Ship a fabric in a thinner, and then quickly spend it round a scratch surface. It will help you will be convinced that a glaze surface slightly hollow. Now it is possible to paint over a scratch as it has been described earlier in this section.
Repair of dents
During carrying out of repair of dents the first that it is necessary to make, it to correct a dent that the damaged place was as is possible more close to the initial form. There is no sense to try to restore completely the initial form as metal in the damaged place is stretched, and it cannot be restored to an initial contour. It is better to level a dent so that its level was approximately on 3 mm below level of surrounding metal.
In a case if the dent very small, in general is not present sense it to level.
If the dent is in such part of a body which has a double layer, or something else does impossible access from within, it is necessary to apply other procedure. Drill some small apertures in metal in the damaged surface, mainly in the deepest parts. Screw in long, self-cut screws in apertures so that they have entered into strong gearing with metal. Now it is possible to correct a dent, having pulled for acting heads of screws by means of flat-nose pliers.
The following stage of repair this removal of a paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal approximately on 2,5 see It becomes by means of a wire brush or a disk for the polishing, put on a drill, however with not smaller efficiency it can be made manually by means of an emery paper. To finish preparations to шпатлевке, smooth out a screw-driver or a file a surface of the bared metal, or drill small apertures in the damaged area. It will provide good coupling of metal and a glaze.
Repairing of apertures from a rust or cracks
Remove all paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal in radius approximately 2,5 sm, having taken advantage of an emery paper or the wire brush, put on a drill. If they are inaccessible, this work can be made manually by means of several sheets of an emery paper.
Having peeled the paint, you can define degree of corrosion and solve, whether replace the whole panel or if it is possible, to repair the damaged surface. New panels of a body are not too expensive, as many people think, and very often much faster to establish the new panel, than to repair the big surface damaged by a rust.
Remove all parts of decorative furnish from the damaged area, except for what operate as the directing initial form of the damaged body of the car, such as the headlight case, and so on. Having taken advantage of scissors on metal or ножовочным a cloth, remove all damaged metal, and also any other metal on which there are rust traces. A hammer bend aperture edges inside to create small dredging for a filling material.
Wire brush smooth out the damaged surface to remove порошкообразную a rust from a metal surface. If there is an access to a back part of a rusty surface, cover with its anticorrosive paint.
Before definitive заделкой закупорьте in any way an aperture. It can be made by means of a tin, приклепанной or screwed in in an aperture, or establish in an aperture a wire grid.
When the aperture will be corked, the damaged area can be filled and painted over.
Filling and painting
Now наполнителей the considerable quantity is accessible to body repair, however, to tell the truth, a set of details for body repair in which there is a filling paste, and a tube of a hardener of polymers is better approaches for carrying out of repair work. For you it will be necessary wide flexible plastic or nylon аппликатор for surface alignment шпатлевки. Mix a mix small amount шпатлевки on a pure wooden plate or картонке (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of manufacturers on packing, differently шпатлевка will harden incorrectly.
Using аппликатор, put filling paste on the prepared surface. Spend аппликатором on a surface шпатлевки to reach a desirable contour and to balance a surface шпатлевки. When initial level and a contour will be reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, paste will stick to аппликатору. Continue to put thin layers of paste with 20-minute intervals while level шпатлевки will precisely not correspond to level of surrounding metal.
When шпатлевка will harden, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with a paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished a waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden брусок, differently the surface шпатлевки will not be completely flat. During surface polishing шпатлевки with an indicator of granularity of 600 units it is necessary to moisten a waterproof emery paper periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.
Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, should be surrounded by the good intact paint should surround repair area. Wash out area of repair by water until all dust which has remained after polishing, will not be removed.
On all smoothed out surface apply a thin film a soil covering. It will help to find out all defects on a surface шпатлевки. Correct the found out defects by means of fresh шпатлевки or лассировки and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. Repeat procedure of drawing of a first coat and шпатлевки until you will not be satisfied by quality of a surface шпатлевки and paint edges. Wash out a surface pure water and allow to it to dry up completely.
Now the repair area is ready to painting. Colouring by dispersion is necessary for carrying out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there will be no dust. These conditions can be reached, if you have an access to the big industrial premise. However if you have to work in the open air, to choose day of painting it is necessary very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat a dust which differently can rise in air. If the repair area is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimise small discrepancy in colour paints. Decorative details of furnish, such as and so on, also it is necessary to disguise or remove chromic overlays, door handles. For masking take advantage of a sticky tape and several layers of a paper.
Before dispersion carefully shake up a paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. Put a thick layer of a first coat on a repaired surface. It is better to put some thin layers, than one thick. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out a first coat surface until it does not become very smooth. During carrying out of this operation the processed surface should be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper also is necessary for lowering periodically in water. Allow to a first coat to dry up before drawing of additional layers.
Spray a paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing of several layers. Start to spray a paint from the centre of repaired area, and then, using circular motions, process all repaired surface, and also approximately 5 sm of a surrounding paint. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing of last paint coat. Allow to a new paint to dry up, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from a new paint to initial. In work end put a wax layer.